COASTAL AIR CONDITIONING

With the recent cold snap hitting, you can take some steps to reduce the amount of energy that you’re using to lower your bill. Here are some suggestions.

Turn down your thermostat to 68 degrees. For every degree you lower your heat in the 60-degree to 70-degree range, you’ll save up to 5 percent on heating costs. Wear warm clothing like a sweater and set your thermostat to 68 degrees or lower during the day and evening, health permitting. Set the thermostat back to 55 degrees or off at night or when leaving home for an extended time, saving 5-20 percent of your heating costs (heat pumps should only be set back 2 degrees to prevent unneeded use of backup strip heating).

Replace or clean furnace filters once a month. Dirty filters restrict airflow and increase energy use. Now is also the time for a furnace “tune-up.” Keeping your furnace clean, lubricated and properly adjusted will reduce energy use, saving up to 5 percent of heating costs.

Reduce hot water temperature. Set your water heater to the “normal” setting or 120-degrees Fahrenheit, unless the owner’s manual for your dishwasher requires a higher setting. Savings are 7-11 percent of water heating costs. Insulate the first 5 feet of pipe coming out of the top of your water heater or the whole length until the pipe goes into the wall if that is less than five feet. Pipe insulation is available from your hardware store.

Seal up the leaks. Caulk leaks around windows and doors. Look for places where you have pipes, vents or electrical conduits that go through the wall, ceiling or floor. Check the bathroom, underneath the kitchen sink, pipes inside a closet, etc. If you find a gap at the point where the pipe or vents goes through the wall, seal it up. Caulk works best on small gaps. Your hardware store should have products to close the larger gaps.

Consider replacing your old gas appliances with an ENERGY STAR® water heater or furnace. If your gas water heater is more than 12 years old, consider replacing it with a newer, more efficient model. The best indicator of a water heater’s efficiency is the Energy Factor (EF). The higher the EF, the more efficient the water heater. If your furnace is over 15 years old, consider replacing it with an newer ENERGY STAR rated model that is about 15 percent more efficient than standard models.

Winter Heating Tips

Use Furnaces and Heaters Wisely

• Set your thermostat as low as it is comfortable. Each degree you lower your thermostat can cut your heating costs between one and three percent. A common strategy is to lower thermostat settings to 68 degrees. The lower you set it, the more you’ll save.
• Turn your thermostat down 10 to 15 degrees during your sleeping hours or while you’re away, to save even more on your heating bill.
• Use a programmable thermostat with your furnace to adjust the setting while you sleep or no one is home.
• Clean or replace filters on furnaces once a month, or as needed.
• Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they’re not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
• Place heat-resistant radiator reflectors between exterior walls and the radiators.
• Bleed trapped air from hot-water radiators once or twice a season. If in doubt about how to perform this task, call a professional.

Weatherize – air leaks waste energy dollars year-round

• Caulking and weatherstripping keeps warm air in during the winter.
• Add insulation around heat ducts when they are located in unconditioned spaces such as attics, crawl spaces, and garages.
• If you see holes or separated joints in your ducts, hire a professional to repair them.
• Check to see that your fireplace damper is tightly closed, when it is not in use.
• During the heating season, keep draperies and shades on south-facing windows open during the day to allow sunlight to enter your home, and close them at night to reduce the chill from cold windows.

For Long Term Savings:

If your furnace is old, the new energy efficient models can help you save on heating bills. Your contractor should be able to give you energy fact sheets for different types, models, and designs to help you compare energy usage. Look for the ENERGY STAR®.

Adding insulation and sealing air leaks help your energy performance in the wintertime by keeping the warm air inside.

Everyday Tips to To Save Energy

These no-cost or low-cost tips are easy ways to save energy and money all year round.

• Replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent lights.
• Air-dry dishes instead of using your dishwasher’s drying cycle.
• Use a microwave oven instead of a conventional electric range or oven.
• Turn off your computer and monitor when not in use.
• Plug home electronics, such as TVs and VCRs, into power strips and turn power strips off when equipment is not in use.
• Lower the thermostat on your hot water heater; 115° is comfortable for most uses.
• Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes.

Renewable energy is important because of the benefits it provides.

Environmental Benefits

• Renewable energy technologies are clean sources of energy that have a much lower environmental impact than conventional energy technologies.
• Energy for our children’s children’s children
• Renewable energy will not run out. Ever. Other sources of energy are finite and will some day be depleted.

Jobs and the Economy
Most renewable energy investments are spent on materials and workmanship to build and maintain the facilities, rather than on costly energy imports. Renewable energy investments are usually spent within the United States, frequently in the same state, and often in the same town. This means your energy dollars stay home to create jobs and fuel local economies, rather than going overseas.

Meanwhile, renewable energy technologies developed and built in the United States are being sold overseas, providing a boost to the U.S. trade deficit.

Energy Security
After the oil supply disruptions of the early 1970s, our nation has increased its dependence on foreign oil supplies instead of decreasing it. This increased dependence impacts more than just our national energy policy.

1. What is carbon monoxide (CO) and how is it produced?

   Carbon monoxide (CO) is a deadly, colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. It is produced by the incomplete burning of various fuels, including coal, wood, charcoal, oil, kerosene, propane, and natural gas. Products and equipment powered by internal combustion engines such as portable generators, cars, lawn mowers, and power washers also produce CO.

2. How many people are unintentionally poisoned by CO?

   On average, about 170 people in the United States die every year from CO produced by non-automotive consumer products. These products include malfunctioning fuel-burning appliances such as furnaces, ranges, water heaters and room heaters; engine-powered equipment such as portable generators; fireplaces; and charcoal that is burned in homes and other enclosed areas. In 2005 alone, CPSC staff is aware of at least 94 generator-related CO poisoning deaths. Forty-seven of these deaths were known to have occurred during power outages due to severe weather, including Hurricane Katrina. Still others die from CO produced by non-consumer products, such as cars left running in attached garages. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates that several thousand people go to hospital emergency rooms every year to be treated for CO poisoning.

3. What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?

   Because CO is odorless, colorless, and otherwise undetectable to the human senses, people may not know that they are being exposed. The initial symptoms of low to moderate CO poisoning are similar to the flu (but without the fever). They include:

   • Headache
   • Fatigue
   • Shortness of breath
   • Nausea
   • Dizziness

   High level CO poisoning results in progressively more severe symptoms, including:

   • Mental confusion
   • Vomiting
   • Loss of muscular coordination
   • Loss of consciousness
   • Ultimately death

   Symptom severity is related to both the CO level and the duration of exposure. For slowly developing residential CO problems, occupants and/or physicians can mistake mild to moderate CO poisoning symptoms for the flu, which sometimes results in tragic deaths. For rapidly developing, high level CO exposures (e.g., associated with use of generators in residential spaces), victims can rapidly become mentally confused, and can lose muscle control without having first experienced milder symptoms; they will likely die if not rescued.

4. How can I prevent CO poisoning?
   • Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer’s instructions and local building codes. Most appliances should be installed by qualified professionals. Have the heating system professionally inspected and serviced annually to ensure proper operation. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.
   • Never service fuel-burning appliances without proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owners manual when performing minor adjustments or servicing fuel-burning equipment.
   • Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space such as a garage, house, or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.
   • Install a CO alarm that meets the requirements of the current UL 2034 safety standard. A CO alarm can provide some added protection, but it is no substitute for proper use and upkeep of appliances that can produce CO. Install a CO alarm in the hallway near every separate sleeping area of the home. Make sure the alarm cannot be covered up by furniture or draperies.
   • Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.
   • Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent.
   • Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
   • Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryers to heat your home.
   • Never operate unvented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.
   • Do not cover the bottom of natural gas or propane ovens with aluminum foil. Doing so blocks the combustion air flow through the appliance and can produce CO.
   • During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.
5. What CO level is dangerous to my health?
   

   The health effects of CO depend on the CO concentration and length of exposure, as well as each individual’s health condition. CO concentration is measured in parts per million (ppm). Most people will not experience any symptoms from prolonged exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm but some heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. As CO levels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms become more noticeable and can include headache, fatigue and nausea. At sustained CO concentrations above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation, unconsciousness, and death are possible.

6. What should I do if I am experiencing symptoms of CO poisoning and do not have a CO alarm, or my CO alarm is not going off?
   

   If you think you are experiencing any of the symptoms of CO poisoning, get outside to fresh air immediately. Leave the home and call your fire department to report your symptoms from a neighbor’s home. You could lose consciousness and die if you stay in the home. It is also important to contact a doctor immediately for a proper diagnosis. Tell your doctor that you suspect CO poisoning is causing your problems. Prompt medical attention is important if you are experiencing any symptoms of CO poisoning. If the doctor confirms CO poisoning, make sure a qualified service person checks the appliances for proper operation before reusing them.

7. Are CO alarms reliable?
   

   CO alarms always have been and still are designed to alarm before potentially life-threatening levels of CO are reached. The safety standards for CO alarms have been continually improved and currently marketed CO alarms are not as susceptible to nuisance alarms as earlier models.

8. How should a consumer test a CO alarm to make sure it is working?

   Consumers should follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a test button tests whether the circuitry is operating correctly, not the accuracy of the sensor. Alarms have a recommended replacement age, which can be obtained from the product literature or from the manufacturer.

9. How should I install a CO Alarm?

   CO alarms should be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. CPSC recommends that one CO alarm be installed in the hallway outside the bedrooms in each separate sleeping area of the home. CO alarms may be installed into a plug-in receptacle or high on the wall. Hard wired or plug-in CO alarms should have battery backup. Avoid locations that are near heating vents or that can be covered by furniture or draperies. CPSC does not recommend installing CO alarms in kitchens or above fuel-burning appliances.

10. What should you do when the CO alarm sounds?
    

    Never ignore an alarming CO alarm! It is warning you of a potentially deadly hazard.If the alarm signal sounds do not try to find the source of the CO:

    1. Immediately move outside to fresh air.
    2. Call your emergency services, fire department, or 911.
    3. After calling 911, do a head count to check that all persons are accounted for. DO NOT reenter the premises until the emergency services responders have given you permission. You could lose consciousness and die if you go in the home.
    4. If the source of the CO is determined to be a malfunctioning appliance, DO NOT operate that appliance until it has been properly serviced by trained personnel.

    If authorities allow you to return to your home, and your alarm reactivates within a 24 hour period, repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 and call a qualified appliance technician to investigate for sources of CO from all fuel burning equipment and appliances, and inspect for proper operation of this equipment. If problems are identified during this inspection, have the equipment serviced immediately. Note any combustion equipment not inspected by the technician and consult the manufacturers’ instructions, or contact the manufacturers directly, for more information about CO safety and this equipment. Make sure that motor vehicles are not, and have not been, operating in an attached garage or adjacent to the residence.

11. What is the role of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) in preventing CO poisoning?
    

    CPSC staff worked closely with Underwriters Laboratories (UL) to help develop the safety standard (UL 2034) for CO alarms. CPSC helps promote carbon monoxide safety by raising awareness of CO hazards and the need for correct use and regular maintenance of fuel-burning appliances. CPSC staff also works with stakeholders to develop voluntary and mandatory standards for fuel-burning appliances and conducts independent research into CO alarm performance under likely home-use conditions.

12. Do some cities require that CO alarms be installed?
    

    Many states and local jurisdictions now require CO alarms be installed in residences. Check with your local building code official to find out about the requirements in your location.

13. Should CO alarms be used in motor homes and other recreational vehicles?
    

    CO alarms are available for boats and recreational vehicles and should be used. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association requires CO alarms in motor homes and in towable recreational vehicles that have a generator or are prepped for a generator.

It happens usually on a hot summer weekend: Your air-conditioning unit stops working. You can take several steps to ensure a longer life for your unit without spending a lot of money.

Keep it clear of debris. The key component of your home’s AC system relies on the coils within the unit remaining free to cool the incoming air. Remove weeds and grass, and be on the lookout for insects. Switch off the electric power. (This switch can be found inside the breaker box inside.) Remove the sheet metal screws and lift off the housing.

Remove the debris and use your garden hose to spray off the coils. Do your best to avoid the electronics. Inspect the coil fins if they are bent. Straighten them as well as you can with the tip of a sharp knife. Replace the housing and carefully tighten all screws.

Check for ants. They are a dangerous intruder. Seeking water and shade, ants will take up residence in your air conditioner, costing you hundreds of dollars. Deter ants by using an exterminator, or try using Lysol spray. (They do not like the smell of Lysol.) Or use white vinegar to wipe away the dust a few times a week. Install ant traps or try surrounding the unit with baby powder, chili powder, scouring powder, boric acid, borax or salt, creating a barrier.

Try to put your AC unit in a shady place. Consider putting up a lattice screen for air circulation. Be sure to not put it too close to the unit, and be sure to build it in a way to allow access for maintenance.

Maintaining HVAC systems is critical to demonstrate that you are following the industry’s “standard of care”. Doing so will help protect your building occupants from unnecessary exposure to IAQ issues and help protect you from potential litigation.

There are some other very good reasons to properly maintain your HVAC system, including:

• Lower utility costs.
• Increase the service life of the HVAC equipment (reduce replacement costs).
• Greater comfort for the building’s occupants.

Common best practices for maintaining a hygienic HVAC system follow.

Select Best Filter Capacity
Filters, and their ability to remove microorganisms can be best understood by using ASHRAE’s standard (52.2-1999) which assigns an efficiency rating to filters called a MERV. The higher the MERV rating the more efficient the filter is in removing small particles. Generally speaking, a MERV rating of 11 or above is recommended.

Filter type can also make a difference in indoor air quality. Pleated filters made of cotton/synthetic fabrics may cost a little more, but the fabric can boost efficiency and the pleats increase the effective area.

Replace Filters (every 1—6 months)
Filters capture dust that can become a food source for mold and, depending on the filter, many of the spores themselves. Filters are made to be replaced frequently. Intervals should be one to six months, depending on the dirt load. You may need to visually inspect filters at monthly intervals before you can assign an established replacement frequency.

One tip for easy maintenance is to install easy to open panels to gain access to the filters and coils.

Clean Evaporator and Condenser Coils (once or twice a year)
Evaporator coils which are continually damp provide one of the best places for mold to grow. In addition to the constant dampness, the supply side of the coil is in contact with warm, humid outside air and the dirt that gets past filters contains the nutrients that mold requires to grow.

The condenser coil, exposed to unfiltered outdoor air, suffers considerable degradation due to dirt. While the condenser coil does not affect indoor air quality, cleaning this coil the same time the evaporator coil is cleaned will improve energy efficiency.

Coils soiled with microbial growth are particularly difficult to clean. Bacterial metabolism creates a sticky waste, which creates a biofilm that locks particles to the growing organism. Some molds develop long branches, or hyphae, that help to further cement the mass together. A quality cleaning solution with an appropriate dwell time is necessary to effectively remove all microorganisms.

Built up fungal growth is difficult to clean from metal surfaces. Technicians can be tempted to use an aggressive (high acid or caustic) cleaner. Such overly aggressive cleaners can damage metal surfaces. Damage can range from pitting of surfaces that interferes with rapid flow of condensate from fin surfaces to accelerated structural deterioration of components. Residues from such cleaners can also contaminate the indoor air if not fully rinsed.

Products like BBJ’s Power Coil Clean are specifically formulated to attack the particulates that hold biofilms together without damaging the HVAC equipment. Once we keep the biofilm from growing back (see treatment section), a less aggressive coil cleaner like BBJ’s MicroCoil Clean can be used to rid the system of dirt through routine cleanings.

Keeping the coils clean through frequent maintenance and appropriate treatments (see next section) will dramatically reduce the time required to complete this job.

As previously mentioned , energy savings is another reason to keep coils clean. A study completed by Pacific Gas & Electric indicates that the efficiency of a 10 ton package unit can be improved 16% simply by cleaning the evaporator and condenser coils. This can entirely offset the labor and product cost of cleaning the coil.

Treat Coils (after every cleaning)
Mold grows very quickly and a coil, once cleaned, can become fowled again in short order. Antimicrobial treatments, like BBJ MicroBiocide® for HVAC Systems, disrupts the reproductive cycle of mold spores and therefore inhibits the growth of mold.

The entire air handler should be treated once it is cleaned to make sure the unit remains free of microorganisms between cleanings.

Inspect Area Around Air Intake (twice annually)
Water can pool around air handlers, particularly those mounted on the roof. As with any place where water exists, mold can grow. Mold near the air intake will increase the likelihood that spores are sucked into the ventilation system. Make sure there is no standing water around the air handler.

Fix Leaks in Cabinet and Supply Duct (annually)
Annual checkups should include a survey of air leaks and corrective action such as replacing screws or latches, and patching or replacing gaskets. Cabinet and duct integrity is particularly important on the supply-air side, where high pressure can force air out a small crack.

Clean and Adjust Dampers (annually)
One of the most common problems with commercial HVAC equipment is improper damper operation. A study of 13 units conducted by PG&E found not one with properly operating dampers. This can negatively affect indoor air quality and also increases utility consumption.

Operating properly, dampers keep the compressor from running when outside air temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. But unless they are kept clean and well-lubricated they stick, robbing the unit of free cooling potential (if closed) or overloading the cooling coil with too much hot outside air (if open).

During servicing, moveable surfaces should be cleaned and lubricated. As long as a service technician is on the roof, this should take about 15 minutes.

After cleaning and lubrication, a damper should be run through its full range. Tools can generate electrical control signals to drive the actuator, or the economizer setpoint can be manipulated at the control panel. Afterward the setpoint should be checked.

Inspect Fan, Bearings and Belts (twice annually)
While proper operation of fans, bearings and belts have minimal impact on indoor air quality, it only makes sense to include this step as a best practice in preventative maintenance. Avoiding the emergency situation of a unit that has shut down (usually on the hottest day of the year) will make best utilization of your HVAC labor force.

Impeller blades on a forward curved fan can fill up with dirt, lowering efficiency and air flow. Cleaning the blades on a small fan can take an hour or more; cleaning larger fans, especially those with multiple wheels on a single shaft, can be a major project.

Many HVAC technicians have found fan motors running in the wrong direction. Because they still supply perhaps 50 percent of rated flow even running backwards, this may not be readily apparent. The most common cause is switched wire leads on the motor. Clear labels on the fan housing, pulleys, motor, and wires can help prevent this problem.

Newer fans have self-lubricating bearings (sealed-cassette ball bearing cartridges preloaded with grease). When they finally fail, typically after several years of service, the bearing cassette must be replaced. Signs of impending failure are excessive noise, vibration, or heat emanating from the bearing.

Conventional greased ball bearings are occasionally found in packaged units. Their most common problem is over greasing, which can be as damaging as under-greasing.

Improperly adjusted belts rob the drivertrain of power, create noise, and must be replaced sooner than well-adjusted belts. Belts should be aligned to prevent lateral wear. Proper tension should be maintained; loose belts slip on the pulley wheels, causing torque loss and rapid wear. Belts that are too tight put an excessive load on the motor and fan shaft bearings, causing early failure of the bearings and/or belts.

Clean Air Ducts (Inspect every 2 years)
There is no real consensus regarding the frequency of cleaning supply and return air ducts. It will depend on the maintenance of the HVAC system (a well maintained system will put a lower dirt load into the ducts) and the use of the building. The North American Duct Clearers Association (NADCA) recommends inspecting supply side and return air ducts every two years (annually in hospitals). If the inspection reveals contamination, the ducts should be cleaned.

This is clearly a job for a professional contractor. You may want to contact NADCA (www.nadca.com) for referrals. Members of this association subscribe to specialized training an industry code of ethics.

Quality Assurance Audits (on-going)
There are many ways for today’s facility managers confirm that best practices to deliver good indoor air quality are in place. These include:

Look up. As you walk through your facility, pay attention to the air vents. This very simple inspection can help you determine if mold or other pollutants are entering your occupied space. Follow your nose. The presence of mold often creates a “musty” odor. Tuning in your sense of smell to the air flowing through your facility could alert you to pending trouble. Ask building occupants. Use periodic random surveys to keep in touch with your building occupants. This can be done through “desk drops” (leaving surveys on employees’ desks after hours, or through the e-mail system. Listen to your building’s occupants. People’s complaints may be an indication of an indoor air quality issue. Confirm record keeping. Record keeping ideas in the “Toolbox” section of this manual. If you choose to use any of these, make sure you routinely inspect them to make sure they are up to date. Testing devices. Swab tests of the HVAC system can provide a clear indication of the systems’ cleanliness. They can detect the level of microbial growth. Maintaining a history of readings can provide confirmation the system is clean or a warning that more attention is required.

Keep Your AC Clear

The big AC unit that sits outside your house is called the condenser and it’s what actually cools the liquid in the coils of your AC. Cooler coils mean cooler air in your house. You’ll want to keep the area around the condenser clear of grass, bushes, leaves and just about everything else so that the fan gets the maximum amount of air that it can. A good rule of thumb is to make sure there is nothing blocking the vents or around the unit for one or two feet in every direction. And be careful to make sure that cut grass isn’t blowing into the unit each time you mow your lawn.

Keep Your AC Clean

Different air conditioning units can be cleaned different ways, but you generally want to make sure that the interior is free of debris on the outside and inside. To clean your air conditioning unit you should always check your service manual first, but there are some general steps. Make sure you turn off the power to the unit before cleaning. Most units can be cleaned with a hose sprayed from the top down, washing any dirt or debris from the inside. You might want to remove one side panel of the outside unit and then take a broom or rake and any left over debris or leaves that have been washed down to the bottom. Some sites recommend cleaning the coils with soft brushes or wet rags, but coils can be damaged easily. I’ve found that spraying them down with water usually works fairly well.

You’ll also want to keep your AC unit clear and clean during the winter off season when you’re not using it. There are some pros and cons to covering your AC during the winter and your choice will ultimately depend upon your situation.

Keep Your Condenser Cool

The U.S. Department of Energy recommends shading your central AC unit so that it doesn’t have to work as hard to cool the coils inside it. This is a great idea and one which I haven’t taken advantage of yet. My AC unit sits in the hot sun for about half the day until the sun moves over my home, so during the early afternoon my AC is working hard just to keep my house, not to mention itself, cool. Planting a shade tree near (but not too near) the unit is a great idea. According to the U.S. Department of Energy this one action could save you up to 10% on your cooling bill!
Keep The Temperature Consistent

Don’t turn your AC unit on and off because that can burn out the interior switches and sometimes even mess up your thermostat. You’re better off setting your thermostat temperature and letting the air conditioning catch up and do its job without your interference. To save even more money you can use an automatic thermostat which you can program to change the temperature to be a little warmer in your house when you’re typically away during the day. You’ll also want to keep your central air conditioner fan on AUTO and not ON all the time. These systems are meant to cycle on their own terms and keeping your furnace fan ON all the time could actually make your home warmer as you blow warm air back into your home.

Checked Your Air Conditioner Regularly

You’ll want to check a couple different things on your AC about once a month. You’ll want to check your air filter and replace it a little more than usual. Some sites recommend replacing it once a month, but I think that might be a little over zealous. My filters cost me nearly $20 a piece and the manufacturer suggests changing them every six months. I usually end up changing them three or four times a year as I see a need. Besides the filter, you’ll also want to look around for any leaks in the hoses or air ducts. You’d be shocked at how often you’ll find loose ducts with small gaps and tiny air leaks around older duct work. You might also consider insulating your home’s air ducts which will not only help with heating, but also on cooling.

Keep Your AC Charged and Serviced

Even after all these checks on your own, you’re sometimes better off having a professional come in and look things over, especially if you suspect any problems. Some local utility companies actually offer affordable service plans you can buy that will include a free yearly check or two just to make sure everything is running as it should. A professional technician can also tell you if you the refrigerant should be recharged or if anything may need replacing sooner than you think. You might even want to consider having a full service on your AC unit every year or two. You’ll almost definitely make up the money in energy savings and peace of mind during those hot summer days.

I’ve also made sure to have ceiling fans installed in just about every room in the house this past year so that I can keep my thermostat set a little bit higher but still feel cool with the fans going. I make sure the ceiling fan direction is properly set and, yes, they really do make a big difference when they are running. It’s estimated that you can save 5% of your energy bill for each degree higher you set your thermostat in the summer months.

I hope this helps you save some money this season and helps you and your air conditioner unit last longer and run more efficiently all summer long!